The history of this fabric goes back to the 19th century in a place called Chirala, in coastal Andhra Pradesh. ‘Telia’ means oil, and 'Rumal' means handkerchief. Telia Rumal has been the mainstay of Ikat in Andhra. Having originated in Chirala, the skills later spread to Nalgonda district. Chirala’s proximity to the sea enabled exports to Africa and Arabia, where it was used to make keffiyehs and turbans. The Telia Rumal, meant for the Middle-Eastern market, was worn primarily around the neck for its 'tel' (oil), to keep dryness at bay. Urbanisation and globalisation of consumer tastes have not robbed telia rumal of their place in India's cultural and social life. This fabric was a hot seller in Andhra Pradesh for about 20-25 years. At that time, the designs used to be simple stars and dots representations. But when this fabric came to the Telangana region, the design underwent dramatic changes. Such was their skill, the dyers/weavers could...