India’s recorded history of clothing goes back to the 5th millennium BC in Indus Valley civilization. The fashion scenario in India has an interesting history to ponder upon, let’s look at the transformation of Indian fashion industry through ages.
1) Ancient India civilization
Indus Valley civilization
little depictions show that usually men wore a long cloth wrapped over their waist and fastened it at the back (just like a close clinging dhoti). Turban was also in custom in some communities as shown by some of the male figurines. Evidence also shows that there was a tradition of wearing a long robe over the left shoulder in higher class society to show their opulence. The normal attire of the women at that time was a very scanty skirt up to knee length leaving the waist bare. Cotton made headdresses were also worn by the women.Women also wore long skirt, stitched tight tunic on their upper body and trousers as well.
Vedic civilization
The Vedic period was the time duration between 1500 and 500 BCE. The garments worn in the Vedic period mainly included a single cloth wrapped around the whole body and draped over the shoulder. People used to wear the lower garment called paridhana which was pleated in front and used to tie with a belt called mekhala and an upper garment called uttariya (covered like a shawl) which they used to remove during summers. "Orthodox males and females usually wore the uttariya by throwing it over the left shoulder only, in the style called upavita".There was another garment called pravara that they used to wear in cold. This was the general garb of both the sexes but the difference existed only in size of cloth and manner of wearing.
2) Mauryan period
During the Mauryan dynasty (322–185 BC) the earliest evidence of stitched female clothing is available from the statue of Mother Goddess (from Mathura, 3rd century BCE). Ladies in the Mauryan Empire often used to wear an embroidered fabric waistband with drum headed knots at the ends. As an upper garment, people's main garb was uttariya, a long scarf. The difference existed only in the manner of wearing. Sometimes, its one end is thrown over one shoulder and sometimes it is draped over both the shoulders.
In textiles, mainly cotton, silk, linen, wool, muslin, etc. are used as fibers. Ornaments latched on to a special place in this era also. Some of the jewellery had their specific names also. Satlari, chaulari, paklari were some of the necklaces.
3) Pre-medieval period
Ancient Indian clothing became medieval Indian clothing. Both women and men started to sometimes wear trousers with long tunics over them down to their knees, called churidar or salwar kameez. Women generally wore churidar with a long veil or scarf over it. These fashions became popular, especially in northern India.
Clothing in the Gupta period was mainly cut and sewn garments. A long sleeved brocaded tunic became the main costume for privileged people like the nobles and courtiers. The main costume for the king was most often a blue closely woven silk antariya, perhaps with a block printed pattern. In order to tighten the antariya, a plain belt took the position of kayabandh. Mukatavati (necklace which has a string with pearls), kayura (armband), kundala (earring), kinkini (small anklet with bells), mekhala (pendant hung at the centre, also known as katisutra), nupura (anklet made of beads) were some of the ornaments made of gold, used in that time. There was extensive use of ivory during that period for jewellery and ornaments.
During the Gupta period, men used to have long hair along with beautiful curls and this style was popularly known as gurna kuntala style. In order to decorate their hair, they sometimes put headgear, a band of fabric around their hairs. On the other hand, women used to decorate their hair with luxuriant ringlets or a jewelled band or a chaplet of flowers. They often used to make a bun on the top of the head or sometimes low on the neck, surrounded by flowers or ratnajali (bejewelled net) or muktajala (net of pearls).
4) Medieval period
During medieval period, women's costumes had their own distinctiveness and appeal. Generally, women of medieval period are dressed in two layers, an overdress and an under dress. Medieval costumes for women generally comprised of wench blouses and tops, medieval skirts, renaissance chemises, etc. Headgear was the choice of every season followed by loose-fitting sleeves and low necklines and waistline clothing. men costumes are manufactured by using natural fibers such as silk, wool or linen. Pirate shirts, pants and tunics along with medieval doublet epitomize the high-society clothing of medieval period. Men costumes have many varieties according to new generation with traditional fashions. Besides this, roman warrior costume, gladiator costume consists of multi color tunic and knee-length cape was some of the best assortments of medieval costumes which were preferred by the men of medieval era.
It can be said that medieval costume is incomplete without clothing accessories. For men, leather belts and hats along with apt medieval weapon such as swords and daggers aids in providing more authentic look. For women, beautiful gold jewelry such as necklaces, pendants, anklets etc. are considered as some of the best accessories that were used with various kinds of clothing.
5) British colonial and post independence period
During the British Colonial period, Indian clothing, especially among the nobles and educated upper classes, began to reflect a clear European influence. The sherwani evolved as a fusion of the British frock coat and an achkan. Clothes went many changes during the colonial period in India. This led to transformation and also conflicts of caste among peoples. This happened when the Western-style dress came into effect in India. The hat was also worn by the people of several religions. This was not because of protection from the sun but sign of respect. Some Indians wore western dresses when they used to go out and changed at home with their traditional dresses.
Western clothing has gained increasing popularity, especially in the metropolitan cities. This has also led to the development of the Indo-Western style. Bollywood has also been a major influence in fashion around the subcontinent, especially in Indian fashion.
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