One of the richest handloom in odisha state is Kotpad a unique weaving . The migraine community preserves the handloom as no ritual or ceremony is complete without the locals dressing up in the beautiful weaves that have made the town famous.
Origin
Origin of this craft is not much clear as the craft is hand down for serial generations. At first the handloom is wear in traditional occasions like Bhatra, Durua, Paraja, Madia, and koyan were few among them.
Making process
For ages the process of Kotpad is completely natural and eco-friendly now-a-days where sustainable products are in demand, the kotpad has lot to offer.
The cotton yarn for kotpad is handicraft mostly created with khaddar or cotton, silk kotpad is sophisticated version. The yarn is treated with cow dung, ash and castor oil, where as dyeing and other process is done with Aal tree. The reason behind the captive colors of kotpad textile is Aal tree only.
Though, the nature process of the fabric is time consuming and laborious, with over 15-20 days to complete the dyeing process. Only women are engrossed in dyeing process, while men engrossed in weaving process.
First step of processing is to washing and drying of yarn on the wooden blocks and after that Castro oil treatment is done.
Next step is to apply the cow dung on the yarn which use as the bleaching agent and secure the dye on the yarn after drying Applied Cow dung, it is washed with ash water and final wash with fresh water and now the yarn is ready to dye.
The dyeing process defines with Aal tree roots. The Aal tree roots were dried, crushed and made in to the powdered form and then the powder is mixed with water and castor oil to form a red dye.
The yarn is socked and boiled into the color dye shades of red, maroon, and drown are produced, depending on the Aal tree age. While other dye are hard and iron sulphate and heerakashi is used.
The dye is finally dried and washed before it is woven. The traditional form of weaving is till date used, pit looms made of wood and bamboo are used by the weavers.
Motifs
The kotpad motifs are inspired by nature and their surrounding which includes leaves, rivers, animals, and farms are usually used as themes. When perfectly done the artisan enchant the viewers with their crafts who speaks above the nature.
Present condition
The kotpad has its own obstacles like other ancient crafts. The craft is depending upon natural components, thus the climate change and environmental unbalance is vital threat. Reducing the plantation of Aal tree and transfer of younger generation into more options of livelihood which makes the craft difficult to survive.
But the designers and few community is doing their bit to regenerate the demand of the crafts and this is done by creating other options other than saree form the yarn like stole, supports, Kurtis, purses and many more.
The kotpad is special and grounded by the rituals and traditions of the the tribes of that place. Though the craft is time consuming, hard work and tolerance is required endurance. Derived from the nature and surrounding, this weave is certainly personification of rich Indian heritage.
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