The age old, an intricate brocade pattern or a small delicate motifs history of the Khun or khana handloom weave favored in North karnataka and some parts of Marathwada and Vidharbha region in Maharashtra. Once a leading fabric among village woman of the region, over ages and under the assault of powerlooms, the original handloom fabric had almost disappeared.
History
Gulegudda, a small nondescript village in Bagulkat district of karnataka, the home of Khun, where once a handloom was flourishing in each household having it’s own loom and every family were weavers.
Though, there is no trace of origin of weave but oral history says it is started around 8th century when the Chalukya dynasty was in power. It is said weavers created the fabric to accompany Ikat saree. One of the saying is that the fabric pieces folded in triangles, placed with a Saree and offered to the Goddess during religious festivals. Some may say it’s how the fabric is folded, this has given the fabric, a name Khana or Khun. The fabrics unique motifs are inspired by nature and mythology .
Process of Manufacturing
Fabric is not an easy task of weaving. By Mixing different dye powders, needed colors were derived after reading the color, yarn is hung on the rode and dipped in color pots. The pots were heated about 40 to 50 degree Celsius. The color starts latching onto the yarn after around 30 minutes, after another half an hour, the yarn is put in the dryer and after drying process then neatly combed and put together to be used in weaving process.
While the yarn was started with the weaving process that takes around 15 days to make approx. 20 meters.
This is undoubtedly a laborious process to make the fabric but anyone will surely hypnotized by the rhythmic taps and clacks of the handloom which sound poetic and musical to ears. On a revived journey weavers have evolved to make the fabric wearable for Saree and a whole other range of wear.
Market loss
Likewise, other hand woven fabrics are facing the problem of fast fashion, Khun is no different in challenges like cheaper raw materials and the ability to weave faster. Power looms present a shift competition to pit loom weavers.
Small skilled jobs like a helper in hotel and sales person in malls or textile shops, which assured them of definite income, that lured the weavers away from weaving the Khun Fabric
Most of the fashion designers worked with handloom fabric such as chanderi, Jamdhani, Ikat, Benarasi, and Kanjeevaram. But Khun fabric left untouched might be the reason of the width of fabric being just 32”,as it was meant to create the Saree blouse.
Slow return
The Indian national trust for art and cultural heritage, Dastkari haat samiti, An art and craft market with few fashion designers have stepped forward, to help the Khun Weavers. Due to their hard work now more people understand the detailing that includes in the weaving process, add into the comfort zone the fabric is natural like silk or cotton with thick and coarse fabric.
The weavers have change the loom size by increasing width size which are favorable for Saree and kameez. They also reduce the cost of the fabric from Rs. 70,000 to RS. 80,000 reduce into RS.6000 per loom. The weavers changed may pay effort.
The Khun was on the verge of the extinction, so much it was neglected. But increasing recent effort of the fashion designers, the new innovation of products like bags, footwear, Saree, cushions, decorative items, stoles, salwars, and accessories made from Khun fabric.
The slow reform of Khun as the favored fabric was evinced when Maharani Radhikaraje Gaekwad of Baroda sported a Khun Saree. Thus, the beautiful Khun used by the farmhands had reached the royals.
Khun will be new entry in the handloom market that have caught the attention of the consumers but more pain stake is needed to keep the Khun fabric breathing.
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