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weaving legendary - himroo

Aurangabad is the place were locally created the himroo and the fabric is a blend of silk and cotton. During Mohammed Tughlaq period Himroo is introduce to the city, when he shifted his capital from Delhi to Aurangabad. Himroo is a Persian word Him-ruh which means “similar” because himroo shares many similarities of Kimkhwab. Himroo fabric designs were Persian and is very characteristic and distinctive in view. Some historian believe that himroo is the innovation of Indian craftsman with Persian touch. 
History 

Historian’s point of view, the himroo is originated in Persia, though it is not proved. Himroo is the only surviving relic of the regal past. In its rich days, it found the high demand in the market and it is traditional Aurangabad speciality and symbolised the weaving legendary of the region. 
Himroo is associated with the times of Mohammed Tughlaq who ruled in the 14th century. When Mohammed Tughlaq shifting his capital many weavers came along and settled when migration happen, the weavers choose to stay in Aurangabad instead of Delhi. Weavers had a golden period during the Mughal era and specially during Aurangabad‘s governorship.
They earn not only money but become more prosperous. Hundred of craftsman were attracted in Aurangabad because it became the hub of special crafts. Many royal families and an elite people attracted to Aurangabad due to the famous himroo, which has  very characteristic and unique style and design. 

The making process 

The cotton is used in the wrap and silk in the weft on a throw shuttle loom multiple looms are used in the very early weaving with pre-decided designs. The weaving is done with the wrap. This special cotton brocade is woven on a throw shuttle loom and has a art silk or silk mix. It has a complicated techniques of weaving. The design is known early because two types of threads are merged.
The designs are geometrical and floral, while intricate creeper designs are very well liked. Himroo has a satiny feel and is best for vests, blouses, coats, shawls and even furniture.
These type of fabrics are specifically designed with the bold colors and patterns, as well as they have a distinctive look. These fabrics find on important part in the wedding ceremonies. 

Designs and patterns 

With daring patterns and colors himroo fabric is eye-catching. Himroo is the perfect choice for shawls and stoles as it is the blend of silk and cotton.
The designs patterns used are shapes of hexagons circle s, octagons, ovals and diamonds. Fruits patterns are mainly used of pineapple, almonds and more. Some interlocking patterns are also followed with designs of flowers, animals, leaves are commonly used. One can see the worth richness in the craftsmanship and the material used. 

Himroo loosing the shine

The himroo trade was flourishing trade got a jolt during the British period when machine made and comparatively cheaper textiles began to arrive.
Even after independence, not much was done to revive the lot of the himroo weavers. Competing with the power loom is not very easy for the handloom weavers. Few of the himroo weavers adopted to weave on the Power loom, but the finished product lacked the grace and the finest of handmade ones. According to media report, the younger generation moved away to better paying jobs. 

Reviving the fabric 

The aid given by private organization tries to protect the customs and revive the legendary weave. Few organizations which produces contemporary fashionable and smart clothing range using heritage weaving technique with many artist involved. According to researchers, till 1950s there are over 5000 weavers creative in Aurangabad district while only two remained in 2018.
 Now, just revival work  started to talk off, their comes the jlot of pandemic struck, covid-19 lock down. In the media report, the covid-19 pandemic, the lock down and lack of tourist, customers in the market dimension. There is a little demand for their traditional weave, which demand time and hardworking. “The finest fabric of the Deccan” is how Marco Polo described Himroo which is fading in the passing of time. 
 

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