Embroidery is a way of expression, for women both working as well homemakers in diverse countries like India. On every occasion, embroidery is a notable part of women’s life, be it a wedding, birth, or religious functions stitching continues to be an important skill. That’s how Sujani embroidery came into Bihar.
Origin and History
The trace of sujani embroidery is date back to the 18th century. The word sujani is gleaned from the words ‘su' which means facilitating and ‘Jani' means birth. Quilts for newborn babies were made by stitching together colorful patches of old clothes and then sujani embroidery was done with striking patches of old clothes and multicolored threads to create motifs and designs.
Procedure and Techniques
The extremely important requirement is to use easily available raw materials as the base fabric. The process begins with a tracing wheel or a tracing sheet. On the quilts derived from the patches of old sarees and dhotis fitted one over the other and then, the artisan starts drawing background by a fine running stitch. Finally, black and brown threads are used for outlining the motifs while the colorful thread is used for filling the motifs.
Difference between Gudri (Gujarat) embroidery, Kantha (West Bengal), and Sijani (Bihar) embroidery
The style of embroidery is similar to the Kantha stitch of West Bengal. But the difference in the use of colors, themes, and motifs differentiate these embroideries from each other. The prime difference is that in Kantha embroidery is that the artisans can stitch in any direction of the fabric, while in Gudri embroidery the stitch sshould be done in straight lines, but there were no motifs done, just the geometrical shapes patches with similar style embroidery are done and going deep into the elaborateness of Sujani style, one will find that this embroidery is done on a cream-colored fabric with stitched motifs outlined by a black colored thread while multiple colored threads are used to fill in shades.
The Products
Every sujani product is distinct as it is handcrafted over the period, the similar kind of motifs change into different types of motifs as well clothes.
There is no limitation on the product range of sujani as it can be made on any of the fine clothes. The artisans have created a specific need for the customers. Some of the common products are cushion, bed over, dupattas, stoles, kurtis, saris, jackets, earnings, folded bags, note pads, diary covers, and a list is endless.
Present-day scenario
Sujani embroidery is overshadowed by the increasing favor of other Bihar crafts. But gradually sujani embroidery is hooking the sight of people which results in almost 15 villages women are adding their earnings into the livelihood of the family through sujani embroidery.
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