Silk makes up only about 0.2% of the world’s textile fabrics production. The demand for silk therefore far outstrips the supply and the market is huge. Something is special about the Eri silk that makes the silk called the queen of textile.
The charming Eri silk production is unique to the northeastern states of India, unlike other silk, the thread of Eri silk is reeled, shorter, stapled fibers, like a ball of cotton, and is handspun.
Eri culture
The rearing of Eri silkworm is known as Eri culture. Eri is also known as Erandi or Endi. The northeastern state of Assam has been the home of Eri silk. It provides economic activities, especially for rural as well tribal women, making Eri culture part of their economy. They utilize their pastime in rearing silkworms and weaving Eri fabrics using their traditional knowledge.
Erik silkworms belong to two species namely samiaRicine and philosamiaReine. PhilosamiaRicine silkworm fed on Castrol leaves and it is also referred to as the Ahimsa silk or the peace fabric, as the pupae are not killed to obtain silk.
The traditional method of killing cocoons for reeling mulberry silk is an ethical problem for animal activities. To make one pound of finest silk 2600 silkworms must die. Eri is the only completely domesticated silkworm other than Bombyx Mori, the mulberry.
Process
The cultivation and weaving of wild silk are rooted in the life and civilization of the people of North East India specifically Assam, the rather unknown eri silk of Assam is particularly intriguing as it is processed non violently. Interestingly the eri silkworm spins short segments of a string and creates a cocoon that is open at one end enabling the month to emerge. This silk is, therefore, a very popular fiber among vegans and Buddhists.
Rural and tribal women traditionally carry out the processing, spinning, and weaving as part of their daily life. 30 days are needed by the silkworm to mature and be fed by Castrol leaves. The cocoon starts spinning which takes 15 days. Once the month leaves it’s cocoon, The silk-making process started.
Then the empty cocoons are degummed by boiling in water, made into small cakes resembling cotton pads, and then flung against the mud houses for drying. Once the drying of the cake happens, then they used for spinning which is similar to the spinning of wool.
Uses.
In India, Eri mostly used for winter shawls for men and women.
The thermal qualities of eri silk makes it a suitable fabric for shawls, jackets, blankets, and bedspreads. Dress materials and baby products are also made from eri silk fabric, because of its soft texture and moisture absorbent qualiI ty.
Eri spun yarns are available, which enables weaving of very fine clothing like sarees and dupattas. Its Woolley feels and strongly lasting texture makes it best use in homely décor.
Quality
Eri silk is a staple fiber, unlike other silks, which are continuous filaments.
The texture of the fabric is fine and dense. It is very tough, durable, and elastic. Eri silk is darker and heavier than other silks and blends well with wools as well cotton. Due to its lukewarm properties, it is warmer in winter and cooler in summer.
Maintenance
The strength of Eri silk is lost when it is soaked in water.
Thus, it is advisable to dry clean the eri silk, it is suggested that not to store eri fabric in plastic as it is breathable fabric. This shall deteriorate the aftermath and shine of your eri silk apparel.
Where to purchase the eri silk?
https://m.indiamart.com/proddetail/eri-silk-yarn-12541262597.html
https://www.jphandloom.in/organic-eri-and-muga-silk-yarn.html
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