The primeval Indian art of organic fabric painting - kalamkari painting

The most basic expression of visual art and design is what Kalamkari art represent.

Indian artists have developed different skills of techniques on the wide surface range like metal, glass, terracotta trees, and almost in all possible medium and what do we say about textile, It is considered as abundantly used canvas.

“Kalam” refers to the pen used in painting whereas “kari” Means craftsmanship involved.

Artist have developed from their ancient art of painting to the most trendy fashion.

History 

Centuries long ago,  folk artist use to be banjaras like who wander one place to other. They primly narrate stories of Hindu mythology in the villages.

  But with passage of time story tales converted into canvas painting and that’s how kalamkari art born. The amazing art is dates back to more than 3000 B.C. The fabric painted with kalamkari have been trace at the site of Mohanjo-daro.

The art was in it’s pick during the mughal era. Golconda and coromandel provinces area is where the art flourished. In the 18th century as a decorative design on clothing by Britishers in India they are used. This art has served as the major source of livelihood over the generations till today. 

The making

The process of making kalamkari involves 23 steps. The process starts with fabric natural bleaching,  softening,  sun drying, preparing natural dyes, hand painting,  the air-drying process, and washing. The whole process requires detailed and precise sight. 

The fabric used for kalamkari deepened in the solution of cow dung and bleach for hours. Which gives the fabric compatible off-white color. After this, the fabric is immersed in myrobalans and Buffalo milk mixture. This prevents the smudging of the painting with natural dyes on the fabric. To get rid of the odor the fabric is washed and the number of washes is 20 and then sun dry. Now, the fabric is ready for painting. The artist sketched the motifs and design on the fabric and also fill colors within the drawing.

To fill the slights details, kalamkari use tamarind twig as pen, to sketch beautiful motifs of Hindu epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana, God and Goddess, and, also natural scenes.

Kalamkari art basically uses earthy colors like indigo, mustard, rust, black, and green. This natural colors are extracted from nature without using chemicals and artificial colors.

Types

The srikalahasti style and machilipatnam style are the two main styles of kalamkari art in India. The main difference in the two styles are the motifs. In the machilipatam style motifs are printed manually with hand carved intricate detailing traditional blocks. While in the Srikalahasti style of painting the Hindu myth scenes from epic as well in the folklore is hand drawn. A strong religious holds is present in the style because of it’s origin in temples.

In modern times, two other types of kalamkari patterns have also emerged depend upon the state where it is created. The Andhra kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh inspired from the fort’s, palaces, and temples of India and also animals and birds can be seen in it.

while Gujarat kalamkari depict motifs of mythological personalities like Krishna and Arjun, Lord Ganesh, Lord Buddha and many more.

Present-day scenario 

This art form has come a long way, from the religious painting, depicting Indian God and Goddess to the Mughal era recognition and till today when Andhra Pradesh and Gujarat are the two largest kalamkari producers.

But, the kalamkari is losing its shine due to tedious technique of it’s making. Their is also effect of printed textiles and machine looms. These are the major factors for the extinction of this art.

It was the join effort of reviving this art from Government and fashion designers who helped artisans practicing this art form in the Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh states.

Creative mind fashion designers portrayed kalamkari sarees and many clothing range on the fashion show ramps which brought back this art a new lifeline.