Baluchari sari is a type of sari mostly worn by women in Bangladesh and the Indian state of West Bengal. it is a handwoven saree using rich dyed silk, with motifs portraying Indian mythology woven into a large pallu.
History
Baluchari came into practice much after the muslin. A small village called Baluchar in Murshidabad district, the saree was practiced five hundred years ago.
The weaving set up was then moved to Bishnupur from Baluchar and the reason known for the transfer is natural calamities. There the industry grew excellently during the British rule.
The making process
The process of making Baluchari can be divided into several parts. The cocoon of the silkworm has been bred to produce raw silk. Then the cocoon attain to the maturity is transferred into the solution of soda, and soap which makes it soft.
According to the requirement, the yarn is dyed in an acid color. To make the yarn crisper. It is stretched from both sides in opposite directions putting the force with both palms.
Motifs making is a complicated process. The designs are drawn on graph paper. It is colored and punching is done using cards after sewing these cards are sewn in order and fixed in the jacquard machine.
Baluchari sari takes five to six days after the jacquard loom is inducted with two weavers working on it. In this manner, Baluchari became the icon of status.
Themes and variety
Nowadays Mahabharata and Ramayana scenes were seen in Baluchari saree.
During Mughal and British eras paisley motifs were often seen with square designs, and the lives of Nawab were women featuring smoking hookahs, Nawab driving horse carriages, and even European officers of East India Company.
Baluchari is broadly categorized based on the threads used in weaving the patterns. Baluchari reshm has the reshm threads in a whole pattern. It is the simplest form of baluchari.
Baluchari meenakari has two or more colors with meenakari work that further brighten the patterns.
The most gorgeous baluchari is in gold or silver also called swarnachuri mostly with meenakari work in another color making it eye-catching to every sari admirer.
Eco-friendly Baluchari is introduced in today’s world and is high in demand.
Present
The rich designs and textures of baluchari saree are enduring but the high cost of production leads to fall of demands later results into migration of job with easy availability of other jobs having fixed income,
the weavers tempted to leave their traditional craftsmanship. The Government of India and government of Bengal sponsored project schemes package for bishnupur area of bankura district. Geographical indication(GI) helps the community to protect the baluchari sarees.
In this fashionable world baluchari is on death end of fashion. It is on us too stretch our support to this amazing craft and prevent the craftsmanship from extinction.
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