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The Grandeur of Silk Pattu- Dharmavaram saree

The luxurious Dharmavaram silk saree has resurged as the saree of intention for the modern bride looking for a definitive ethnic wedding. Interestingly, the weaving of Dharmavaram sarees is one of the latest, in comparison to all other drapes.
History 
Dharmavaram sarees are the deluxe patronage of the town of Dharmavaram, in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh. This ancient town gets its name from Dharmamba, who was the mother of Kriya Shakthi Vodavaru Swamy, the founder of the town.
The town took to silk weaving naturally due to the surplus of mulberry trees around the area, which makes for a natural breeding ground for wild silkworms. By the 19th century, the mulberry silk Dharmavaram sarees found nationwide commendation for the sheer splendidness and glamour of the weave.
Woven originally as wedding sarees, in shades of red and yellow, the weavers innovated over time to include all colors, motifs, designs, and ornaments to keep up with the changing times.

Identify the Dharmavaram saree
The saree has a rich luster due to the use of gold zari extensively and its brilliance and grandeur make the Dharmavaram saree doozy. Dharmavaram Saree has royally woven motifs of flora and fauna and designs inspired by the temple murals and paintings of the famed Lepakshi temple in Hindupur, Anantapur district.
The use of gold, silver, green, and red zari adds to the splendor of the saree making it very relevant for use on grand occasions.

Technique 
Pit loom and frame loom fitted with two jacquards are used for weaving these sarees. One jacquard is used for weaving border design and the other is used for weaving designs in the body and pallu. More than two jacquards are also used for elaborate designing.

Varieties
Dharmavaram sarees have two distinct varieties: the handloom and the power loom type. Among the 26 designs available in the sarees, 11 are handloom and the remaining 15 are from the power looms.
There are around 240 jaquards of Kalanjali, Evening, Morning and brocade sarees. Wedding Dharmavaram sarees are also known as Rajwadi sarees, for their exclusive royal color combinations and texture.

Present condition
It was registered as one of the geographical indication from Andhra Pradesh by Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
Dharmavaram silks have gained international ground and have become extremely popular in France and Germany. Today because of the great demand, there are over 1500 silk manufacturing units and over one lakh looms in active production.
The annual turnover is around 500 crores with a majority of the industry run by women, contributing significantly to rural families. 

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