Art that involves maths - moti bharat

Traditional embroidery has a connection with maths. The threads and beads are counted according to designs. It is the magic of the artist that remarkably creates accurate patterns.

The artist creates the jewellery in remote parts of Gujarat and Rajasthan. In ancient times beads were highly precious and were considered exceptionally worthwhile by Indians and Western civilizations. They were mainly used as money by the natives to buy goods from other natives.

History

 There is a mention of beadwork in the Indus Valley civilization. In the early days, beads were made of marble and stones. There is a demand for Indian beads in the world during that period. In the Egyptian pyramids beads, artefacts were found.Though the history of beads is rich and ancient as around 5000 years.

Lothal formulated the most crucial  port and centre of the bead industry until when a great flood obviously resulted in 300 years of decline. The factory comprised 11 rooms, which included worker’s quarters, warehouses and guard rooms, surrounding a courtyard. The main bead making machine was a twisted chambered kiln, made from mud plastered bricks, which was used for heating the stones used to make beads. Bellows helped raise the temperatures within. Lothal was especially famous for its micro-beads. These were made by grinding materials, rolling them on to a string, baking it solid. Finally the baked roll was sawed into required shapes and sizes.

Making process

The process making of moti Bharat is distinctive.  The designs and patterns are created with a mathematics calculation. The method is passes on from generations. There is a room for innovation in designs of moti Bharat.

The start of moti work process is a knot on the thread with bead lock. The thread should be in the required length and then strung a bead and needles through the previously knotted end to make a locking system and subsequently, thirteen more beads were stringed. Again set of four beads and needles them through the fourth bead of previously made string which results in a loop of seven beads. This method is called kadi.

In the reserve direction for their first loop, the four beads are taken and then needles through the middle of the previous scallop. Then making string of three beads. While in the next scallop color is changed when required in the design and the artistic piece are created.

Kalbeliya beadwork from Rajasthan

The kalbeliya are known for their famous snake chamber dance. The form is even listed as an ethereal cultural heritage by UNESCO.

The women make necklaces, earrings, bracelets, waistbands, and hair pieces by stringing beads. These jewellery are mostly worn by kalbeliya women during their dance performances. Earlier jewellery was part of their daily life.

Gujarat kutch beadwork

Rabari women in Kutch create traditional bead jewellery and embroidery art. Rabari women generate aesthetically pleasing jewellery,  bags, garments embellishments, animal trappings and decorative items.

The items created with beads were part of dowry in the early days.

Disappearing in the market

Despite many efforts, the jewellery seems to have no takers due to lack of knowledge . Few sellers can be seen selling in fairs or roadside stalls. The art must be preserved and this responsibility is on us.