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Unfamiliar Textile of Gujarat- Saudagiri Block Print

The best thing about saudagiri print is its versatile quality and combination of motifs. Saudagiri art was so favoured that it was given the name 'Pha of Gujarat' in Siam now known as Thailand.  Traditionally men and women of I am wore lower garments. Due to various reasons, these prints have now become a variety and only a few of the old fabrics preserved by traditional craftsmen can be found in museums today.

History

In the 19th century, a trader from Gujarat saw a beautiful printed fabric that was exported from the Coromandel in the south of India meant for the royal family of Thailand. He grabbed the possibility of designing the equally bright and finely printed fabric for the common people of Siam from Gujarat. On returning to Gujarat he gave the samples of textiles to Ahmedabad printers to create exact copies. Since these prints were ordered by a trader. It is known as saudagiri print. 

Usage

The print was created in Ahmedabad and Pethapur a small village in Gujarat by the skilful community named Khatri. The Khatri community created a 5-meter fabric with borders on either side or intricate geometrical designs in the central part. These were called Phanung, a piece worn by men and Phanungnang, worn by women. Over time, a few local designs were added and became a part of saudagiri prints.

Designs

Craftsmen at Ahmedabad are masters in their work. The blocks are of different shapes and have traditional designs. Inspired by the temples of Thailand and the Mughal patterns of Gujarat. The basic patterns of saudagiri are free-form, floral and geometric shapes.

Challenges

Natural colours are costlier and slowly chemical colours are replacing them. The modern screen printing is a threat to the art of saudagiri print which is faster in production and cheaper in cost.

Revival

The only surviving printer of Saudagiri Printing based near Ahmedabad trying hard to revive this print for the past six years.

Few of the institutes like NID, MSU and some designers are working strongly to create new market opportunities and to rejuvenate the sport of ancient textile saudagiri of Gujarat.

 

 

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