The Art of Resist Dye - Shibori

The resisting technique of dying fabric is often known as Shibori. The word comes from Japan and origin verb used were Shiboru which means “ to wring, squeeze and press”. Unique patterns are created by binding, stitching, folding, twisting of the fabric. This style of dying is found in worldwide with different methods and resistance and dye. Mostly famous in Japan.

According to the Japanese folklore, shibori was well like among people, who were not able to wear silk fabric.

History

An art which is age-old with a technique of knotting, tying, stitching  and then dyeing it to achive amazing patterns that binds culture across the boundaries.

Few of early day examples found in Peru, damp and dye from Japan, zhu-ran of Bai in China, Bandhani from Indus valley civilization – India, leheriya from Rajasthan -India, To palanquin and tritik in Indonesia, Nambu tigma in Tibet, tie and dye from Africa and Berber communities and the psychedelic tie and dye of western hippies. This all techniques is called Shibori.

There are hundreds of methods of shibori. Every method has its unique effects depending on how the fabric absorb and resist dye. Type of fabric also matters in the dying process. But, what makes Shibori is the part of surprise element.

Technique

There are different kind of shibori dying. There are three categories :

kokechi, tied or bound resists, rokechi, wax resist, kyokechi, mud resist where the fabric is folded and clamped between the wooden blocks. Most varieties fall in this categories.

     Kanoko Shibori

Tie and dye is what Kanoko Shibori is known in the west. It is done by binding certain sections of cloth using thread. The result is depend on the method of binding of fabric.

      Miura Shibori

Bandhej is other name of Mirura Shibori. YouIt is done by taking a hooked needle and plucking section of the fabric. Then a thread is looped around each section twice. There no knot is used.

     Nui Shibori

The Nui Shibori is stitched Shibori. Just simple running stitch is used on the cloth then pulled tight to gather the cloth. The thread must pulled tight and wooden dowel should used to pull it tight and secured by knotting before being dyed. This technique is time consuming.

      Aroshi Shibori

Aroshi is also known as pale wrapping Shibori. The cloth is wrapped on pole with the help of thread. Aroshi Shibori is a Japanese word for Strom patterns that are on a diagonal in Aroshi Shibori, which suggest coming of rain with heavy Storm.

       Itajime Shibori

Itajime Shibori is a shape resist technique. Traditionally, the cloth is sandwiched between two pieces of wood, which tied with string. For creating repeated pattern the cloth is multiple folded.

Shibori in India

Regionally developed technique for fabric manipulation and dying have existed for millennia is the sub-continent. The best known is Bandhani. The bandhani word comes from Sanskrit word Banda means “to tie” and this is originated during Indus valley civilization around 4000 B. C. You can also found evidence of bandhi in Ajanta caves.

Another technique practiced in India is leheriya leher means ‘waves’. The leheriya is created through a rolling the fabric to create wave.

The Japanese style came in to India in the early 20^th  century said by Randranath Tagore, an Noble award laureate.