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The Goan legacy-- Kunbi Sarees

Beaches and Goan culture is world-famous in Goa. Lots of artists and craftsmen are born in this the the small state of Goa. When we speak about textiles and handicrafts from Goa, the kunbi saree is part of the talk.
The kunbi tribes are the oldest in Goa. Originally Hindu, but converted Christians during Portuguese rule. They are closer to nature. The kunbi women wear the saree in the paddy field and this is the reason the drape of saree is simple and length is just below the knees which gives freedom to do chores of the day.

History
The kunbi word derived from Kun means people and bi means seeds. Another word source states that kunbi comes from the  Marathi word kumbaya or Sanskrit Kur, meaning agricultural agronomy. The fabric meant for farmland laborers mainly is their identity.
Even though the saree has got its traditional roots, it is considered very ethnic. There is a simple check on the saree, which not only differentiates the look and it includes the saree in geometric design pattern from the textile point of view.
The saree was initially woven in 4 to 6 yards of length instead of 5 to 6 yards, this is one of the reasons why this saree drape in a unique way without a blouse.
Traditionally, the kunbi is a cotton saree mostly with red, white, and black colors. A silken creamy inset in the original kunbi can be found.
The tribe people weave the kunbi sarees, one can not say when the saree originated. It can be centuries ago.

Equipment and Formation

Initially, the saree was knitted in small and large checks with red, white, black colors. The colors are natural and are derived from iron ore, rice starch, and vinegar. These materials are boundless in Goa.
The reason behind the kunbi saree 100% cotton is that they are a super hard worker.
The weave is a plain weave with wraps drawn alternatively in groups of ends of colored yarns on the handloom so that with insertion of the picks again likewise in the alternate colored pattern the design of the check is originated.
Structure.
Apart from checks in the saree, the border is the eye-catchers. The border varies around an inch and is patterned closely with the colored warp thread.
Catering to various stages of life and occasion, kunbi saree color is decided. Yellow, red, green, darker shades of maroon, purple and black signify youth, marriage, old age, and death. While men wore a red and white loincloth called kashti.
With about 156 dye yielding plants around and identifying these plants is a matter of looking. Sawantivadi, Maharashtra town is the hub of these dyes 

Present-day schemes
The handloom industry has slowly died with the impacts of power looms and auto looms.
The requirement of raw material is a costly affair. With the newer generation finding a better and easier way of earning. They are no longer interested in their family business.

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