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Mystic on Loom - Bandhas of Orissa

The technique of the ikat in Orissa is ancient, locally called Bandhas. It is detailed dying process done with the silk or cotton fabric. The finished product is a cloth which bathed and shimmered in colorful patterns. Before the cloth is waved the pattern are dyed and tied into threads. This is the major difference of Orissa Ikkat from other tie and dye process where the fabric is woven in first place.
History
 As per the art historian orissa weaving originated dates back to 600 BC, this art form is related to the Lord Jagannath.
According to the legend, Jayadeva a famous poet from the 12th century presented Lord jagannath with his Gitagovindam in the form of fabric. The Gitagovindam verses in his hometown of Kenduli.
The king of Puri then ordered for the gitagovindam materials supplied by Tigiria. In addition to Gitagovindam patta, many other materials were used in ceremonies.  it is also accepted that the ikkat art came from the temple architecture which exist earlier.

Types
There are three types of Ikat.
The first type of bandhas  is single ikat in which either the wrap yarns or the weft are dyed.
The second type is the combination of both warp yarns and weft used together in different parts of the fabric.
 The third type involves both warp and weft threads from both axis mesh with each other At certain points to show a completed pattern.

 The making
A resist process is used for dying Orissa bandhas. Generally, cotton and silk fabric are used. 
The Process starts with the wrap or weft threads bound with rubber bounds which can avoid the procedure of dye colors. Then the bundles put into the dye vat after riding it with wooden frame. To generate pattern they were given repeated dying treatments. When the dying process is completed, then comes the complex weaving process. The whole family will require to weave the threads into a stable piece of fabric.
Though for the dying process natural colors are used such as plants, flowers, and barks of trees, but with changing demand and modernization has fueled the need to use chemical dyes as well.

Comparison
In the ikat varieties, Orissa bandhas are compared to patan patola from Gujarat, and the pochhampali ikat from Andhra Pradesh. On the go, where might be comparison with Uppada, Gadwal, paithani and Banarasi sarees. The Odisha Bandhas holds it’s own place.

Innovation
Machines were used instead of hands in the weaving, which reduces the time and labour of weavers. While many other materials like georgette, jute and much more are used with traditional cotton and silk.

Present scenario 
Ikat as art has reached its top point in Orissa. The artesian of bandhas mostly belongs to Meher community. Bandhas has uplifted the use from saree various items like handbags, footwear, and more in the list.
Bandhas Well found in the wardrobes of celebrities and world leaders alike. While lower price bandhas is that dailywear choice, the premium sarees have a special place during the wedding, festivals and functions.

Maintenance
 For the silk bandhas dry cleaning or soft hand wash will go and moderate
temperature level is required for ironing while cotton bandhas regular hand wash or machine wash will be ok and for ironing moderate to medium temperature will be safe.
 

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